Discovering the Magic of Florianópolis
A 5-Week Journey in Brazil's Island City in the South
First Impressions: A Slow Start in Centro
I arrived in Floripa at midnight, groggy and unprepared (no adapter, rookie mistake). My first day was slow but comforting—coffee, pão de queijo, and a coxinha from a nearby café set the tone for my mornings to come. I spent the day settling in, working, and making veggie soup with my grocery delivery. It wasn’t glamorous, but it was the perfect way to ease into island life.
Exploring Centro: Markets, History, and Sunsets
Centro, where I stayed, became my home base. The public market was a sensory overload of fresh fish, produce, live music, and food stalls. I wandered through parks, admired the cathedral, and soaked in a breathtaking sunset by the waterfront. Evenings often ended with a glass of Portuguese wine or a caipirinha, Brazil’s national cocktail made with sugarcane spirit, lime, and sugar.
A private walking tour revealed fascinating tidbits about Floripa’s history. Did you know the city is named after a president who killed to keep his position? Or that it’s called “The Magic Island” because of its Azorean settlers’ belief in witchcraft? The stories added layers of intrigue to an already enchanting place.
Beaches, Trails, and Coastal Adventures
Floripa’s beaches are the stuff of dreams. Barra da Lagoa, with its golden sands and turquoise waters, was a standout. I took a bus (cheap, air-conditioned, and efficient) to this charming beach town, where I explored the main beach, crossed a bridge to a smaller, quieter beach, and hiked to a viewpoint for stunning coastal vistas. Açaí sorbet and friendly locals made the day even sweeter.
Another favorite was Campeche, a wide, chill beach with a laid-back vibe. Walking along the shore, feeling the cool Atlantic water on my feet, and enjoying fish with tamarind chili sauce at a beachside café was pure bliss.
One of my most memorable adventures was hiking to Costa da Lagoa. The trail was anything but easy, but the views and the sense of accomplishment were worth every step. I rewarded myself with a hearty moqueca (a seafood stew made with red palm oil, see below) at Sabor da Costa and later, spotted a monkey on the boat ride back—an unexpected highlight!
Foodie Paradise: Buffets, Amazonian Flavors, and Moqueca Magic
Floripa’s food scene is as diverse as its landscapes. Buffets are a staple here, offering a wide variety of dishes like rice, beans, several meats and seafoods, farofa, and pastels. Desserts are often included, but they’re weighed and added to your total, which is a great way to enjoy just the right amount of sweetness without overindulging.
One of my favorite meals came from Amazon Fruit Bowls, an Amazonian restaurant where I tried Pará rice (cooked in tucupi broth with shrimp and jambu), maniçoba (cassava leaves with meat), and vatapá (a creamy shrimp dish with coconut milk). Each dish was a unique flavor experience, and I couldn’t resist finishing with a scoop of ice cream made from cupuaçu, Brazil’s national fruit.
But for me, the standout dish was moqueca, a seafood stew that’s as vibrant as it is delicious. Colored with red palm oil and served with sides like rice, farofa, fries, and salad, it’s a must-try. I first enjoyed it at a lakeside restaurant during my hike to Costa da Lagoa, but it’s a beloved dish available throughout the island and elsewhere in coastal Brazil.
*Support my blog and adventures. If you choose to purchase an experience from the links below or within the article, I will earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.
Sunsets That Steal the Show
Floripa’s sunsets are nothing short of magical. Whether I was at Santo Antônio de Lisboa, the Mirante do Morro da Cruz, or simply strolling along the waterfront, the skies never failed to put on a breathtaking display. Fiery oranges, soft pinks, and deep purples painted the horizon, reflecting off the water and creating postcard-perfect moments. Each sunset felt like a gift, a reminder to pause and soak in the beauty of this incredible island.
Samba Nights and Caipirinhas
Some of my most memorable evenings were spent at Bar do Noel, where the rhythm of samba filled the air and the energy was infectious. With a caipirinha in hand, I found myself swept up in the lively atmosphere. The music, the dancing, and the friendly vibe made every visit a celebration of Brazilian culture.
Connections Through Time Left
I also connected with people through the Time Left app, which organizes group dinners. It was a fantastic way to meet both locals and fellow travelers while enjoying delicious meals. Each dinner brought new faces, interesting conversations, and a sense of community that made my time in Florianópolis even more special.
A Farewell to Remember
On my last day, I ventured to Armação, a picturesque beach on the southeast side of the island. Fishing boats dotted the shore, tide pools teemed with life, and locals gathered to enjoy the sunset. It was the perfect way to say goodbye to this magical island.
For more photos of this amazing city, visit my Florianópolis collection!