Rediscovering Mexico City: Six Weeks Living Local
There is a distinct difference between visiting a city for the first time and returning for a second. The first trip is often a frantic race to check off the "must-sees." The second? It’s deeper. It’s about settling in.
I recently returned to Mexico City (CDMX) for a six-week stay, marking my second extended visit to this vibrant metropolis. This time, my camera lens wasn't just looking for famous landmarks; I was looking for the rhythm of daily life. From the purple explosion of Jacaranda season to the intricate details of colonial architecture, this trip was a lesson in slowing down—sometimes voluntarily, and sometimes, as you’ll read, forced by a stubborn stomach bug.
Here is a look at my six weeks living, eating, and photographing my way through CDMX.
The Colors of Condesa and Roma
If you follow my photography, you know I am drawn to color. But what surprised me during this trip was how subtle the color palette of neighborhoods like Condesa can actually be.
We often imagine Mexico City painted in a constant bright spectrum. While those pops of color definitely exist—a bright pink wall here, a turquoise doorway there—the beauty often lies in the greenery.
Walking Avenida Amsterdam
My daily routine often started with a walk along Avenida Amsterdam. This oval-shaped avenue circles Parque México and is the heartbeat of the Condesa neighborhood. Like many streets here, it features a pedestrian median that feels less like a sidewalk and more like a lush, green tunnel.
It’s the perfect place to start the day with a light breakfast and a walk, soaking in the vibrant atmosphere. The vibe here is undeniable: music playing, dogs everywhere, and flowers blooming at every turn. It reminded me, quite literally, to breathe.
Jacaranda Season
I don't know what’s prettier: the bougainvillea or the Jacaranda.
Visiting in spring meant witnessing the city wash over in purple. The Jacarandas were in full bloom, dropping their violet flowers onto the sidewalks and creating a canopy over the streets. I spent one afternoon specifically trying to capture these blooms in front of the Soumaya Museum.
Photography tip: Backlighting can be a beast. The sun was working against me, underexposing the flowers against the bright sky and the museum's reflective hexagonal tiles. It took some heavy editing to recover the shadows, but the contrast between the organic, purple flowers and the modern, metallic architecture was worth the effort.
Finding Details in the Chaos
If you follow me on Instagram, you might notice that many of my architectural photos from this trip are tight close-ups. This isn't just an artistic choice; it’s a practical one.
Mexico City is visually dense. Beautiful historic buildings are often obscured by thick trees, deep shadows, and tangled webs of electrical wires. To capture the essence of a building without the visual clutter, I learned to zoom in. Focusing on the upper tiers of a dome, the texture of a stone facade, or the ironwork on a balcony tells a clearer story than a wide shot ever could.
The Reality of Travel Health
Social media highlights reels often skip the gritty parts of travel, but in the spirit of honesty: I was sick for a significant portion of this trip.
It started vaguely—I blamed a drip coffee I had with a churro—but it turned into a weeks-long battle with a stomach bug. There were days when I thought I was in the clear, indulging in tacos and gelato, only to be knocked back down the next day.
I eventually ended up on a bland diet and a round of meds after a visit to a local doctor. The diagnosis? Definitely bacterial, though whether it was the water, food, or just bad luck remains a mystery.
This experience shifted how I experienced the city. Instead of my usual coffee-fueled explorations, I switched to matcha for lower-acid caffeine. I learned to appreciate softer, slower days. A big outing became a visit to the doctor followed by a gentle walk home. It wasn't the high-energy trip I planned, but it served as a reminder that things can happen and I'm lucky that, with this full-time lifestyle, I will still get the most I can from my longer stays.
A Culinary Journey (Between the Bland Days)
When my stomach allowed, the food scene in Mexico City did not disappoint. The variety here is staggering, ranging from street food to international fusion, to Michelin rated experiences.
Vegan Finds and Market Hauls
One of the highlights was Los Loosers, a fantastic vegan, mushroom-forward restaurant. The dining area is tiny, so arriving early for dinner is a must. I ordered the tepeche—a fermented pineapple soda with spices—along with dumplings and a mole taco with cashew-based cheese. It was complex, earthy, and delicious.
For everyday eating, I leaned into the local markets. The Martes Mercado (Tuesday Market) in my neighborhood became a favorite spot. I walked away with a haul of avocado, tomatoes, oyster mushrooms, tiny bananas, dates, limes, and a huge hunk of Chihuahua cheese—all for less than $8 USD.
Surprise Seafood in the City
Near the end of my trip, I stumbled upon a Sinaloa-style seafood spot in Condesa/Hipodromo. It was strangely empty, likely because locals had their fill of seafood during Easter week, but their loss was my gain.
The food was fresh and vibrant. I had a tuna entree covered in tamarind and chile sauce, served over potatoes with a side of mango. It reminded me that Mexican cuisine is incredibly regional; the ceviche styles here are entirely different from what I make at home, often incorporating crisp vegetables like jicama and cucumber.
Sweet Treats
Despite the stomach drama, I managed to sneak in the essentials:
- Pastries: Pain au chocolat (French) and Pastel de Nata (Portuguese) are easily found here, thanks to the cosmopolitan bakery scene.
- Churros: Essential, though maybe skip the accompanying drip coffee if you have a sensitive stomach!
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Mango Sorbet: The perfect remedy for a hot afternoon walking the streets.
San José’s Food Scene and Final Days
Parks, Culture, and Community
One of the joys of staying for six weeks is that you have time to revisit places and see them in a new light.
Chapultepec Park
I spent several afternoons in Chapultepec Park, which is twice the size of Central Park in New York. I relived my childhood on the merry-go-round, visited the zoo, and simply people-watched.
On my final day, I caught the free Sebastião Salgado exhibit at the Anthropology Museum within the park. I didn't have time for the full museum (it is massive), but seeing world-class photography in an open-air setting was the perfect goodbye to the city.
Easter in the City
I expected the city to shut down on Easter Sunday, but I was wrong. Chapultepec was insanely packed with long lines for every attraction. Before heading to the Zocalo, I was able to witness the Danza de los Voladores (Dance of the Flyers) near the park and right outside the National Museum of Anthropology—a beautiful and unforgettable tradition. Pivoting plans afterward, I made my way to the Zocalo.
The vibe there was crowded but pleasant. The cathedral bells rang for a solid 30 minutes, creating a cinematic soundtrack as I explored the square. It was a reminder that holidays in travel destinations are often unpredictable—sometimes you get quiet streets, sometimes you get the whole city celebrating in one square.
Making Connections
Travel is nothing without the people. I had the chance to meet up with other full-time travelers for dinner, sharing stories over tuna tostadas and duck tamales.
I even had a serendipitous run-in with Light Watkins, a spiritual podcaster and author I loosely know, right in the middle of Parque Mexico. It made this massive city feel surprisingly like a small town.
Until Next Time
My six weeks ended with a sunset viewed through the Monument of the Revolution and a final night walk by the Angel of Independence.
Mexico City is a place that demands you pay attention. It demands you look closely at the architecture to see past the wires. It demands you slow down when your body tells you to. And it rewards you with purple flowers, warm people, and arguably the best avocados in the world.
I’m already planning trip number three. Hopefully, next time, without the bacteria.